Finally, to add some more depth to the fingernails, toenails and lips you will need to add a few details. Once again, this part is optional but I would suggest not skipping this part as the effect looks great.

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You can get ready mixed Genesis paints for the exact tones quite cheaply if you would rather use them. Just follow the instructions as required.

However, another great way to get realistic nails and lips is to use gallery glass.

You will need the following extra items:

• Gallery Glass Rose Quartz
• Delta Air Dry Perm Enamel Satin Glaze
• Delta Air Dry Perm Enamel Cream

With the Filbert, put a fine coat of the satin glaze over the lips. Be very careful not to put too much on, and then leave this to try. You are only looking to give it a ‘moist’ look so they get the sheen lips usually have.

Next, Add a coat of the Gallery Glass to the finger nails wiping from the inside of the finger nails (closest the skin/knuckle) to the outside. Do the same on the toenails too.

Once these are done, put a small amount of the cream paint onto the a liner brush – paint a thin line at the end of each nail. Remember that this is a baby, you do not want to put a thick manicure look on the nails, you only need an ultra fine tip at the end.

Once done – leave these to dry. Please note that they are self-sealing, this means that they do NOT need baking.

Also, I would not recommend putting more than one layer on as it can lead to pealing.

Finally, be sure to wash your brushes in a suitable cleaner (rubbing alcohol/white spirit) afterwards so they don’t get ruined.

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Requires: Mop brush, Berry Maker Tool, Pyrole Red 03

This stage is optional, you do not have to do this. However, it does add more realism to a reborn. Mottling fills out an area with extra color, after all skin isn’t one shade. The trick is to blot off most of the color on the brush before applying as you do not need to use very much.

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Put some of the paint onto the mop brush and apply it all over the knee first, you only need to wash the knee with a thin layer at first. Next, with the berry maker, start pouncing the area you just applied the paint too. As the berry maker is clean, the idea is to take some of the paint off the doll. You will need to keep cleaning the tool every 3-5 pounces. Just dab it in a clean paper towel. Keep pouncing until you are left with speckles.

Continue doing this over the leg, and continue with the Forehead, Scalp, Knees, Toes, forearm, ankles, Ball of the foot, Elbow and fingertips. If an area looks too dark, dab it with a clean sponge to soften it.

Once you have done this and are happy with the results, bake for 8-10 minutes.

Alternate method of mottling

Requires: Stencil brush, cosmetic sponge, Pyrole Red 03

This method is slightly easier although the effect can be a bit hit or miss I find. Feel free to try this If you have problems with the method used above.

To add color with this alternate method of mottling, simply dab the brush onto the required area and then pat it with the sponge. You are not trying to blend the area so much, you are trying to remove any harsh edges from the color so it is a more natural transition.

Take the Stencil brush, and dip it into the Red 03 paint. Blot off most of the paint onto a paper towel. Starting with the knee, mottle the area and pat it with the clean sponge afterwards until it is smooth and not so dotty.

Continue to do this on the Forehead, Scalp, Knees, Toes, Ankles, Ball of the foot, Elbow and fingertips. Bake once this has been done.

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Requires: Cosmetic sponges, Flesh 04 mixture

With the dolls head on its side, dip the sponge in the mixture and pounce some color in the area just in front of the ear. Turn the head and repeat on the other side.

Next, do the same on the limbs. On the outside of the arms, pounce the color from the shoulder to the hands. Do the same for the legs, going from the ankle all the way to the upper thigh.

Bake once this has been done.

Step 6: Establish eyebrows

Requires: liner brush, Burnt Umber Light mixture

This is quite an easy section – simply dip the brush into the paint and paint in lines to mimic eyebrows and establish a base. Bake the head.

Once it is set, fill out the eyebrows with much smaller strokes. Rebake.

Step 7: Blushing

Requires: Cosmetic sponges, Bespoke color

To add blushing onto the doll, simply pounce the color into any area that requires it. To establish the initial base blushing, look for any area that might be considered raised. I like to adding blushing to the following areas.

• Knees, Ankles, Heels, Toes,
• Elbows, Knuckles, Fingers
• Forehead, Tip of the nose, Chin, Cheeks, Ears

Once you have added the blushing, bake all pieces.

Consider adding another layer of blushing to any, but not all, of the above areas except the cheeks. An extra layer can add some great depth to the doll once finished, but you don’t want the cheeks to be overly prominent.

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Requires: #2 Filbert, bespoke mixture

With the brush, paint a line along the length of the crease between the upper and lower lip. (where the mouth opening would be). Once you have done this you do not need to add any extra color. You are trying to achieve a shaded look so the inside of the mouth is darker than the edge of the lips.

Working the bottom lip first, pull some of the color downwards to cover the lip. Repeat onto the upper lip, maintaining the lip shape – most lips have an M shape at the top while the bottom is fairly rounded.

Once done, bake all of the pieces in the oven again.

Check if the lips have the desired shading look. If it is not noticeable at all, then you can go over it again using the same technique and rebake as needed. Don’t put too much color on or you could ruin the head.

Step 4: Add some veins

Requires: Liner brush, Blue mixture

This step is optional. Some people don’t find veins overly attractive on their baby dolls, whereas others adore the realism they can offer. While they may not be the most attractive part of reborning, if you want a realistic effect they can definately add some depth to your baby.

There is no right or wrong way to vein, and the best guide for this part are photographs or even yourself. Look at where you have veins that are the most prominent and look closely at the type of vein they are. Most are a long line with a few forks in them, but some are quite spidery in their appearance.

With a liner brush, dip it into the liner mixture and add a few forked veins onto the forehead, and the inner ear.

Next, add some veins onto the eyelid, Wrist (spidery), back of the hands, middle of the foot and above the ankle (spidery again).

Bake all of the pieces you added veins too.

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Requires: #2 shader brush, Fan brush, Burnt Umber Light mixture

First of all, take your #2 shader brush and with a small amount of the Burnt Umber Light Mixture, paint a line into each crevice on the doll. Remove any excess with a sponge and be careful not to add too much paint.

The purpose here is to add depth by producing shadows onto the doll. If areas appear too dark, then feather them out a bit with a fan brush.

Put all of the pieces onto a suitable oven proof dish that has been lined with paper towels and bake for 8-10 minutes as detailed above.

You can test if the paint has set by dabbing part of the doll with a lightly dampened cotton swab. If any color appears then it has not set yet. Keep testing every 2 minutes until no color appears and the paint has been set.

Step 2: Base color

Requires: Cosmetic sponges, Flesh 08 mixture, Flesh 07 mixture

With a clean cosmetic sponge, dip it into the flesh 08 mixture that was mixed first, and pounce over the entire dolls head and limbs.

Try to keep the pouncing light but consistent over the whole doll. If an area has too much dotting then use a clean sponge and go over the area until you are happy with it.

Once you have done this, bake the pieces as above until set.

After the pieces have cooled do exactly the same as above but with the Flesh 07 mixture.

Do not bake the pieces yet - you will need to add some features to the head.

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This is almost like dabbing, or blotting the doll with a cosmetic sponge that has paint on it.

Preparing the paints

To prepare the paints, you will need to use the spoons to measure how much you are putting in.

These are clearly labelled as detailed below – dash, smidgen etc.

To prepare the paints, cut a small amount of the Pyrole 08 paint into the smidgen section of the spoons. Put this into one section of the ceramic paint tray and add to this 2 dashes of the thinning media.

Mix this thoroughly with the Kemper tool.

Wash the spoons, and then do the same for the following colors;

• Pyrole Red 07
• Flesh 04
• Flesh 08
• Phthalo Blue 02

Mix one smidgen of the Burnt Umber light with one dash of thinning media and mix well.

Finally, Mix 3/4 Smidgen of Pyrole Red 03 paint and 1/4 skimp Smidgen of Pthalo Blue to One Dash and One Pinch of Thinning Media. Later on in this guide this color will be referred to as bespoke mixture.

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Genesis heat set paints are considered to be harder to use than other methods. This can be true if you are a beginner, but this guide sets out to inform you how to use them correctly, making it much easier. Genesis paints can be very forgiving, and you can remove it from the doll with some rubbing alcohol and a swab. As always, more is less, so work in thin layers, adding more as required.

If you bake the doll and find out it is wrong then you can restrip the color using the earlier steps and start again.

Please be aware that this will give you a good base color. Feel free to experiment with other tones as required. Skin tones vary a lot against different dolls so may need tweaking.

Using an oven

That’s right – you will need to bake the doll pieces in an oven once they are painted. If you do not want to use a conventional oven you might want to look into picking up a small convection oven instead – they can be purchased for around $20 second hand, if you shop around. You can also get heat guns from genesis that you can use to set the paint, although I do not like these as much.

Calibrating your oven

As silly as this may sound, you should calibrate your oven to get the correct temperature so you do not ruin the paint/vinyl. Most ovens need to be set on a higher temperature than what you are trying to achieve.

For example – the doll pieces need to be baked at 130C or 265F – however, in order to achieve this on my over I have to set it at 285F. Be sure to preheat the oven too!

You can calibrate the oven correctly by using an oven thermometer.

These are cheap to pick up, and I highly recommend you get one, you will need it in order to check the temperature during baking. Genesis paints must be cured, as above at 265F for 6-10 minutes. When you put the pieces, check that it stays at a consistent temperature or adjust accordingly. I have to bake mine for 9 minutes.

If you do not bake it correctly, the paint will come off.

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This is to make them look more like skin, and less like the orange doll you have in front of you.

This can be quite a tricky process but it is important to remember that less is more. If you do not put enough on, you can simply add more until you are happy with the results.

This part is one of the hardest for newcomers to master, so to make it as easy as possible, please read this section carefully. It has been split into small sections for each part so it should be easier to follow.

It is best to do this in a well lit area so you can see the true color that is being applied. If you are in a dark room, make sure you have a lamp overlooking where you are working.

Also, there are many methods to painting your reborn doll so you will want to find the best one for you.

Dolls come in a variety of base colors. It may be necessary to neutralize the color of the dolls vinyl. The guide below is based on an orangey doll, although if yours is any different you can use the color chart below to find what one you need to use.

http://realcolorwheel.com/realcolorwheel.htm

Simply find the skin tone of your doll, and use the opposite color on the other side of the chart.

For example:

If the baby is too orange; put a touch of blue in your first layer of color. If it is too pink; put a touch of green in your first layer of color.

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