No doubt, even if you did a remarkable job rooting the hair, you are going to need to fix the hair somewhat in order to make it look more real. A quick haircut is in order and what you do here is entirely up to you. However, I would start with a basic trim as detailed below. This part is much easier if you wet the hair first.

Comb the hair downwards to the next all around the head so you can see how long it is.

You are going to cut it to the same length around the head, starting at the back. Where the hair line ends, start by cutting all the way around and as you are approaching the ear cut upwards so that when you reach the ear you can cut around the top of it.

With the hair at the front, cut any excess that hangs below the eyebrows.

Next, the the back of the head facing you, comb the hair on either side into the centre so you have 1 large clump. Cut off the ends. Redo this for the hair in between one ear, and then the other.

Clothes

This part hardly requires a guide J Simply add your chosen outfit to your doll. If you want to be ultra creative, then you can make your own clothes. There are plenty of free patterns available that will help you to do this, but it is not something I am terribly good at, so I usually end up buying an outfit.

Congratulations - you have finished reborning

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For each limb, Manoeuvre a cable tie into the tie fastening on the other end, pulling it through but leaving enough space so the limb can be attached. Add a small amount of Polyfil into the opening on the body, and add the limb. Make sure it is facing in the right direction, and pull the tie tight. The limb should not be able to turn, and should be completely secure.

You will need to add some weight to the body. Baby fat pellets can have reactions against vinyl so you JUST put them in cloth bags first. If you use poly pellets instead, I would still recommend containing them in bags so nothing can leak out. Fill a bag with the pellets and put it in at the bottom of the body. Next, fill the rest with Polyfil – you don’t want to pack it too tightly but enough to give it some shape.

In the same way as the body, add a bag of pellets inside the head. The amount of weight is up to you, although a cup full is usually adequate. Fill the rest of the head with Polyfil.

Attach the head in the same way as the other limbs – thread the cable tie through the neck piece and place the head in its spot before tightening the cable tie. Be sure to leave a little room so the head can twist a bit.

You can detach a limb by cutting the cable tie if you need too, and then add it in the same way. Once you have completed all of the limbs, cut off the end of the cable tie that has been pulled through so it doesn’t flap about anymore.

Do not use sand in your doll – this can leak quite easily and you will end up with a weightless doll. Also, if you plan on selling it, or sending to a relative abroad, you may find that customs and excise confiscate it.

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Eyelashes

First of all, add the eyelashes to the doll. There are 2 ways to do this – you can either microroot them in place using the same method that did the hair, but with 2 inch strips, or you can apply eyelashes.

The latter gives very good results, and it probably the better of the two, however feel free to microroot if you wish. Once you have finished rooting, cut the eyelashes to the required length afterwards.

Don’t forget to glue the roots in place afterwards, from the inside of the head.

If you are going to apply eyelashes, first of all, make sure the eyelash is the correct size, and trim if if need be.

Remember, that the longer eyelashes should be on the outside of the eye, closest to the ear. Peel off the eyelash and start at the outside of the eye. Touch it into place with your craft knife, and continue along the eye to the inside. Add the other eyelash and leave them to dry.

Sealing the Nose

This is entirely optional, but I prefer to have the felt in place which adds depth – otherwise the open nostril can be very odd looking. Take your felt and cut a square big enough to cover both nostrils. Apply some glue to the front of the felt and stick the felt over the nostrils from the INSIDE of the head.

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You only need to do this step if you have a doll that has open eyes. If you have a closed eye doll, then you are safe to move on.

Changing the dolls eyes can have a very dramatic effect on the babies face so you should take as much time as possible to get this part correct. If you don’t line the eyes up correctly, you may end up with uneven eyes, a cross-eyed baby or worse.

You can get some very lifelike acrylic eyes quite cheaply nowadays, especially on eBay, and when you buy them you should get the half round eyes rather than the full circled ones. This is so they can be held in place properly. Once the hair is secure and the glue is dried, you first need to remove the old eyes from the doll.

Using a hair dryer, an oven or hot water again, heat the head so it is easier to pop the eyes out. Once the area is pliable and being careful not to burn yourself squeeze near the eyes so they start to almost pop out and then insert the screwdriver under the eye and simply pry it out.

It does not matter if the plastic eye breaks or is damaged as it will not be needed again. However, be very careful not to tear the vinyl on the dolls face. Repeat to remove the other eye, reheating as required.

Putting the eyes back in is the same again, but in reverse – heat the dolls head again until it is pliable and then add your new dolls eye into the socket. As the vinyl cools down it will tighten and shrink slightly which will hold the eye in place. Repeat for the second eye, and be sure you get the eyes positioned correctly as you do them.

Alternate method

If you cannot get them into the socket, then you can glue them in place. First, carve away the back of the eye socket so that is hangs like a flap.

Put the eye in place, and add some glue to the back and reattach the flap. This is a lot easier to do, but can cause problems if the eyes are not aligned correctly.

Making the nostrils come to life

The nostrils also need to be removed and the simplest way to do this is with a handheld drill.

Simply drill through the nostrils making sure you do not use a drill bit that is too big. After you have done this, you may need to file the holes down so they are smooth, but in most cases just removing any excess vinyl is fine.

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Place the wig on the dolls head and see that is actually fits with the style you are trying to achieve. Turn the wig inside out and spread the glue all over the wig cap.

You do not need to add too much glue here, and you should try and add an even layer over the cap. If you add too much it will leak out of the sides and ruin the head.

Place the wig onto the head again, and slide it until its in the right position. If any glue got into the wig, don’t worry too much as it can be combed out once its dry.

Make sure the edges are secure and not over glued – if there is an excess try to wipe it away without smudging it over the face.

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You have 2 ways to add hair to your reborn day. The first is microrooting, which is a term used to describe the method of rooting strands of mohair to the dolls head. The second is to use a wig.

I would highly recommend you to use microrooting as it can give incredible results. However, it is also a lot harder.

You can buy handles for the needles to make them more comfortable to use, and they are usually rounded wooden ones. I have suggested you get a mushroom tool in the opening section which is superb for this process.

However, you can also make a makeshift one out of rubber bands if you need too.

The babies head needs to be kept warm, as this makes it softer and easier to root. You can do this in an oven if need be, although it is easier and quicker to use a hair dryer.

For best results, use 2 shades of similar color mohair and be sure to use even amounts each time. You should be looking to use about 5 inch lengths, but if you are not sure then allow for extra – you can always cut if down afterwards.

Heat up an area of the head with the blow dryer for a few seconds so it is warm to touch.

Start at the front of the head with the hair facing towards the back. Keeping the hair in place with your finger and thumb start poking the hair through with a needle, going in at an angle and not rooting in straight lines.

Continue to work around the head at the base hair line. Don’t add too much hair to any one area, and remember that a babies hair if often quite sparse.

When you have rooted the hair line, continue working upwards around the doll with the hair rooted in the same direction as other roots in that area.

As you continue to work, reheat the doll as needed, and take fresh strands of mohair as required. Once complete, look for areas that are too thin, or have too much hair and add more or pluck as required.

When you are happy with your microrooting, turn the dolls head over and add some glue to where the hair comes through – be sure to use plenty or the hair will fall out, and leave it to dry.

After pouring some glue in, with an old paintbrush, brush it over anywhere that has been rooted.

Add more glue if you need too, and don’t be afraid of going a little over the top with it.

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Finally, to add some more depth to the fingernails, toenails and lips you will need to add a few details. Once again, this part is optional but I would suggest not skipping this part as the effect looks great.

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You can get ready mixed Genesis paints for the exact tones quite cheaply if you would rather use them. Just follow the instructions as required.

However, another great way to get realistic nails and lips is to use gallery glass.

You will need the following extra items:

• Gallery Glass Rose Quartz
• Delta Air Dry Perm Enamel Satin Glaze
• Delta Air Dry Perm Enamel Cream

With the Filbert, put a fine coat of the satin glaze over the lips. Be very careful not to put too much on, and then leave this to try. You are only looking to give it a ‘moist’ look so they get the sheen lips usually have.

Next, Add a coat of the Gallery Glass to the finger nails wiping from the inside of the finger nails (closest the skin/knuckle) to the outside. Do the same on the toenails too.

Once these are done, put a small amount of the cream paint onto the a liner brush – paint a thin line at the end of each nail. Remember that this is a baby, you do not want to put a thick manicure look on the nails, you only need an ultra fine tip at the end.

Once done – leave these to dry. Please note that they are self-sealing, this means that they do NOT need baking.

Also, I would not recommend putting more than one layer on as it can lead to pealing.

Finally, be sure to wash your brushes in a suitable cleaner (rubbing alcohol/white spirit) afterwards so they don’t get ruined.

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Requires: Mop brush, Berry Maker Tool, Pyrole Red 03

This stage is optional, you do not have to do this. However, it does add more realism to a reborn. Mottling fills out an area with extra color, after all skin isn’t one shade. The trick is to blot off most of the color on the brush before applying as you do not need to use very much.

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Put some of the paint onto the mop brush and apply it all over the knee first, you only need to wash the knee with a thin layer at first. Next, with the berry maker, start pouncing the area you just applied the paint too. As the berry maker is clean, the idea is to take some of the paint off the doll. You will need to keep cleaning the tool every 3-5 pounces. Just dab it in a clean paper towel. Keep pouncing until you are left with speckles.

Continue doing this over the leg, and continue with the Forehead, Scalp, Knees, Toes, forearm, ankles, Ball of the foot, Elbow and fingertips. If an area looks too dark, dab it with a clean sponge to soften it.

Once you have done this and are happy with the results, bake for 8-10 minutes.

Alternate method of mottling

Requires: Stencil brush, cosmetic sponge, Pyrole Red 03

This method is slightly easier although the effect can be a bit hit or miss I find. Feel free to try this If you have problems with the method used above.

To add color with this alternate method of mottling, simply dab the brush onto the required area and then pat it with the sponge. You are not trying to blend the area so much, you are trying to remove any harsh edges from the color so it is a more natural transition.

Take the Stencil brush, and dip it into the Red 03 paint. Blot off most of the paint onto a paper towel. Starting with the knee, mottle the area and pat it with the clean sponge afterwards until it is smooth and not so dotty.

Continue to do this on the Forehead, Scalp, Knees, Toes, Ankles, Ball of the foot, Elbow and fingertips. Bake once this has been done.

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Requires: Cosmetic sponges, Flesh 04 mixture

With the dolls head on its side, dip the sponge in the mixture and pounce some color in the area just in front of the ear. Turn the head and repeat on the other side.

Next, do the same on the limbs. On the outside of the arms, pounce the color from the shoulder to the hands. Do the same for the legs, going from the ankle all the way to the upper thigh.

Bake once this has been done.

Step 6: Establish eyebrows

Requires: liner brush, Burnt Umber Light mixture

This is quite an easy section – simply dip the brush into the paint and paint in lines to mimic eyebrows and establish a base. Bake the head.

Once it is set, fill out the eyebrows with much smaller strokes. Rebake.

Step 7: Blushing

Requires: Cosmetic sponges, Bespoke color

To add blushing onto the doll, simply pounce the color into any area that requires it. To establish the initial base blushing, look for any area that might be considered raised. I like to adding blushing to the following areas.

• Knees, Ankles, Heels, Toes,
• Elbows, Knuckles, Fingers
• Forehead, Tip of the nose, Chin, Cheeks, Ears

Once you have added the blushing, bake all pieces.

Consider adding another layer of blushing to any, but not all, of the above areas except the cheeks. An extra layer can add some great depth to the doll once finished, but you don’t want the cheeks to be overly prominent.

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Requires: #2 Filbert, bespoke mixture

With the brush, paint a line along the length of the crease between the upper and lower lip. (where the mouth opening would be). Once you have done this you do not need to add any extra color. You are trying to achieve a shaded look so the inside of the mouth is darker than the edge of the lips.

Working the bottom lip first, pull some of the color downwards to cover the lip. Repeat onto the upper lip, maintaining the lip shape – most lips have an M shape at the top while the bottom is fairly rounded.

Once done, bake all of the pieces in the oven again.

Check if the lips have the desired shading look. If it is not noticeable at all, then you can go over it again using the same technique and rebake as needed. Don’t put too much color on or you could ruin the head.

Step 4: Add some veins

Requires: Liner brush, Blue mixture

This step is optional. Some people don’t find veins overly attractive on their baby dolls, whereas others adore the realism they can offer. While they may not be the most attractive part of reborning, if you want a realistic effect they can definately add some depth to your baby.

There is no right or wrong way to vein, and the best guide for this part are photographs or even yourself. Look at where you have veins that are the most prominent and look closely at the type of vein they are. Most are a long line with a few forks in them, but some are quite spidery in their appearance.

With a liner brush, dip it into the liner mixture and add a few forked veins onto the forehead, and the inner ear.

Next, add some veins onto the eyelid, Wrist (spidery), back of the hands, middle of the foot and above the ankle (spidery again).

Bake all of the pieces you added veins too.

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